Replace "Toggle Design" button with new /settings/appearance
route
#4368
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Just like the "Toggle Design" button before, this route is only visible in development mode, or to be more precise: the link to this route is only visible in development mode, so that we can test this out in production too.
This should be seen as a first step towards implementing a "dark color scheme" mode (see #3585), roughly inspired by how GitHub has implemented it in their user settings.